Notes on Mullaghmore, County Sligo
1. The views from it are ridiculously, frighteningly, laughing out loudly beautiful.
2. There was a Catholic healing and renewal weekend with Father Dalton just finishing in the Beach Hotel when I arrived. 3. The Pier Hotel across the road has an outdoor hot tub with an astonishing view of the mountains and the sea, and is advertised as such in their foyer. 4. A biker guy in faded Harley Davidson t-shirt rides around the village on a brown and white horse, completing the ensemble with cowboy boots, spurs and a fancy but well-worn bridle. He is an occasional bouncer at the soon-to-be-reopened hotel nightclub.
5. I can hear the Atlantic Ocean from my room and see it from my bed.
6. The Quay Restaurant serves as its only vegetarian option a combination of two classic vegetarian options – a goat's cheese tartlet perched atop a vegetable stir fry.
7. The cliffs at Mullaghmore Head rank seventh in the league for highest waves in the world, according to a perhaps not entirely reliable local source. 8. There are two memorials on the cliff road above the village, one to Eamon, beloved father, and a second to Adrian, claimed by the sea, commemorated by the Garda Sub Aqua club and especially by one deep sea diver who never gave up hope.
9. There is a PADI dive centre in what is otherwise an old house divided into flats that looks as if it has been transported here directly from Dublin Six.
10. People here swear a great deal, creatively, and at volume. 11. I have not yet begun reading Nevil Shute's On the Beach. 12. The Tayto crisps in the pub are from Norn Iron and proud of it. 13. Portishead was on the hotel lobby soundsystem on a Monday at midnight.
14. I have watched the waves from above, floated on the surface of the sea, dived underwater breathing tanked air, jumped over streams, and camped beside the ocean.
15. At least one child, who looked to be about two years old, thought I was a man. More specifically, she thought I was her father.
16. Up the hill there is a B&B adorned with a house for sale sign that a neighbour said has been there for a year.
17. In Mullaghmore I am ridiculous, frightened, and laughing out loud.
More photos of Mullaghmore - above and underwater.